Shekhawati
has produced the maximum number of millionaires and billionaires in
India! The wealthy merchants of this region popularly known as Marwaris
are spread all over the world but still own their ancestral mansions
(havelis) in their native villages and towns. The five great deeds a
marwari merchant is supposed to do are to build a haveli, a well, a
school, a dharamshala (Caravanserai) and a temple. The merchants,
flushed with money, competed with each other in building such
structures.
In spite of being this exotic visual treat,
Shekhawati, for some strange reason, did not figure in the tourist
itinerary until the early 80s. Important guide books like Eustace
Reyolds-Ball’s The Tourist’s India (1907) and Nagel’s
more ambitious India: Encyclopaedia-Guide (1977) conveniently left out
this paradise of paintings. It was only after Francis Wacziarg’s
and Aman Nath’s discovery that Shekhawati began to be taken
seriously. Wacziarg is a French businessman and an Indophile, while his
friend Aman Nath a writer and graphic designer. In their peregrinations
through the country, the two young men had stumbled upon the Shekhawati
frescoes and decided to expose them in a photographic essay, The Painted
Walls of Shekhawati (1982). It was only after that Shekhawati began
getting the attention it so much deserves.
HistoryIn
the 16th-17th centuries, Rajasthan stood divided into five large and
several smaller kingdoms. The five were Amber (Jaipur), Bikaner,
Jaisalmer, Jodhpur (Marwar) and Udaipur (Mewar). The first two kingdoms
shared the region which was destined to become so rich in murals. The
founder of this beauteous Shekhawati was the Rajput, Rao Shekha, a
descendent of the illustrious Kachhawaha family who held Amber-Jaipur
for centuries. The chieftains of Shekhawati were the descendants of
Baloji, the third son of Raja Udaikaran, who succeeded to the throne of
Amber in 1389.
Places to see
- The open art gallery
The semidesert region of
Shekhawati is a colourful fantasy having fascination uniquely of is
own. 'The open air-art-gallery', as it is popularly called, is
famous for its plethora of painted havelis, all commendable pieces
of the rich artistic tradition of this region. 'Shekhawati', meaning
"the land of Shekha's clan" derives its name from Rao
Shekha (1433 AD-1488 AD) a scion of the Kachhwaha family of Jaipur.
Earlier a part of the former Jaipur state, it now comprises of the
districts of Jhunjhunu and Sikar. Initially the region had a blank
monochromatic look but with subsequent historical and social
developments it has blossomed into a colourful profusion of art and
life for almost 2 centuries from 1750 AD to 1930 AD.
- Havelis
Although the region has lost its importance
as a centre of trade, its importance today lies in the splendidly
frescoed havelis or mansions- mostly constructed by the prosperous
merchants, between the 18th and 20th centuries. The area being arid
and opportunities being limited locally, enterprising men moved out
to carve niches for themselves in business. Today the splendidly
painted walls of the people of Shekhawati.
- Dundlod
This
quaint is in the heart of the Shekhawati region. The fort here dates
back to 1750. Steps lead up to the Diwan Khana furnished with
portraits, hangings and period furniture. It also houses a library
and portraits done in European style can be seen here. The fort has
now been converted into a hotel. The Goenka havelis and other with
beautiful frescoes
- Sikar
Sikar was the wealthiest thikana (feudatory)
under the Jaipur state. The 17th century fort here, was built when
Sikar was an important trading centre. Sites worth visiting here are
the market, the clock tower and the painted Biyani, Murarka and
Somani havelis. There is one Haveli Painted only in blue, quite like
the typical Chinese blue and are the Sagarmal Sodhani Haveli, Madho
Niwas Kothi, the Jubilee Hall and the Fort. The Jain temple as also
the temples of Gopinath and Raghunath and Madan Mohan deserve a
visit. In the neighborhood lie the Jeen Mata temple and harsh Nath
temple.
- Harsh Nath Temple (11 km)
An ancient 10th century
temples situated on the Harsh Nath hills.
- Jeen Mata Temple (29 km) Believed to have been built a thousand
years ago the temple is the venue of a colourful fair held twice in
a year during `Navaratras'.
- Rambagh
Founded in the late 18th century by the
Poddars. The Shani Temple of the Saturday God has delicately painted
frescoes. Marvelous cenotaphs of the Poddars have exquisitely
painted ceilings. The Ganga Temple and some beautiful havelis add
interest to the town.
- Lachhmangarh Fort
One of the most imposing forts in
the Shekhawati region, Lachhmangarh commands a bird’s eye view
of the town modeled to resemble the city plan of Jaipur. Founded in
the early 19th century by Raja Lachhman Singh of Sikar, the town has
some lovely havelis.
Shekhawati is named after its ruler Rao Shekha of the
15th century. Strategically placed on the route between ports of Gujarat
and Northern India, the region became very prosperous by imposing levies
on the caravans of traders passing through. When the region's fortunes
fell after the development of new ports like Bombay and Calcutta, the
merchants migrated en masse and quickly re-established themselves. They
continued to send their huge incomes back in their villages thus
continuing their constructive passions.
Prominent towns of the
region are Nawalgarh, Mandawa, Mahansar, Mukundgarh, Lachhmangarh,
Singhana, Parsrampura, Khetri, Baggar and Jhunjhunu. The continuity of
havelis and quietness of the towns suggest bicycle tour as the most
ideal way of sightseeing. A few farm retreats have also recently come up
with the idea of an eco-friendly stay. Tal Chhapar Sanctuary is a good
excursion point; the sanctuary has an overwhelming population of
Blackbucks.
How to Reach
- Air
Jaipur is the nearest airport, 120 km away from
shekhawati.
- Train
Mainline railway joining Delhi, Jaipur,Bikaner
crosses Shekhawati
- Road
Shekhawati is 120 km by road from Jaipur. THis
is the most convenient way to tour Shekhawati and surrounding areas.
